1. Vinyl Profiles (Lifetime Warranty): Vinyl main frames and vinyl sashes are lifetime
warranted not to rot, pit, corrode, peel or blister under normal use and service.
   2. Light Lift™ Window Sash Balance System (Lifetime Warranty): INTERSTATE'S exclusive
Light Lift™ Sash Balance System is lifetime warranted against defects in material and workmanship
under normal use and service.

     3. Insulated Glass Unit and Hardware & Attachments (Lifetime Warranty): Insulated glass
manufactured with the Super Spacer® Insulating Glass System is warranted not to show material obstruction of vision resulting from film formation caused by moisture between the interior of glass surfaces due to failure of the airtight seal. All insulated glass has an allowable imperfection range in accordance with American Society for Testing Materials - ASTMC1036-90.
     If glass should fail prior to year 20, INTERSTATE will provide you with a replacement unit at no charge. If glass should fail after year 20, then INTERSTATE will allow you a percentage of the company's selling price for insulated glass at that time, according to the following chart.

Years 1 - 20                 100%
Years 21 - 50                75%
Years 51 - Lifetime      50%
Hardware and attachments are lifetime warranted against defects.

NOTE: In the case of optional leaded or beveled glass, replacement coverage for failure is 100% for 8 years from the date of manufacture and carries no proration thereafter.

     4. Labor One year limited labor warranty. During the first year from date of manufacture, INTERSTATE will provide installation site labor FREE of charge to make the repair or replacement.  In addition, INTERSTATE will provide FREE replacement parts and ship the replacement parts to the installation site FREE of charge. Labor for the installation site replacement of a sash/glass or screen is specifically excluded from this warranty. INTERSTATE will ship replacement sash/glass or screen to the dealer nearest you FREE of charge. You are then responsible for the installation of the
replacement sash/glass or screen. If you request that an INTERSTATE service technician come to the installation site to replace a sash/glass or screen, you are responsible for labor and travel costs.

     5. Wood Components in bow & bay windows and extension jambs are specifically excluded from this warranty.

  Limited Transferrable Warranty. This limited warranty is transferrable by the original property owner to one subsequent property owner providing INTERSTATE receives written notice of the transfer of title of property within 30 days after the date of transfer of ownership. Failure to notify INTERSTATE in writing will release INTERSTATE of any further obligation under this limited warranty. In the event of transfer of property, the warranty period shall be limited to the original warranty period.

     At no time are labor costs associated with the removal, installation or reinstallation of the windows and rolling doors covered under this warranty. All labor charges will be at then prevailing rates.

     Quality of installation may be covered under other warranties as provided by installing dealer.

     The warranty to corporations, partnerships, government agencies, organizations, or any other entity capable of infinite life is limited to 10 years from date of manufacture on vinyl profiles insulated glass, hardware and attachments, and subject to the same conditions as stated herein.

     Condensation on exterior glass or vinyl does not indicate a defect in the window and may occur as a result of humidity within the building and interior/exterior temperature, and, therefore, condensation is specifically excluded from this warranty.

     Minor cosmetic improprieties are not considered defects. The word "defect" as used in this warranty is defined as "those improprieties which materially impair the use of the product.". 

     This warranty does not apply to windows which have been installed outside of the U.S. and windows which have been subject to faulty or improper installation; damage or defects resulting during transportation, handling and installation; stresses arising from heat application causing temperature differentials over the glass surfaces or edges and/or stresses caused by building settlement or movement; abuse, neglect, misuse, accident, fire, flood, hail and wind, explosion or any other act of God or condition beyond the control of the manufacturer such as the exposure to harmful chemicals or polutants and normal weathering of vinyl surface and normal wear and tear of window hardware and attachments. Replacement components may vary in color or gloss in comparison to original components. INTERSTATE Window & Door Co. shall not be liable as a result of such variance.

     Screens are intended to deter insect penetration, not to prevent forced entry or to prevent persons from falling through the screen and/or glass. Torn screen cloth is specifically excluded from this warranty.

     INTERSTATE reserves the right to change, discontinue, or alter any of its products, or the parts incorporated into any of its products, at its sole discretion. If an identical model, part or component is not available at the time of any claim under this warranty, INTERSTATE reserves the right to substitute any other model, part or component as a replacement.

     This warranty shall be valid only after being fully completed by the dealer, signed by the original purchaser (owner), and promptly mailed to INTERSTATE Window & Door Co. within 30 days after installation.

     To obtain performance under this warranty, a representative of  INTERSTATE Window & Door Co. shall be allowed to make a reasonable inspection of the window to determine if the claim is valid. INTERSTATE may require that the defective part(s) be returned at your cost to receive free replacement parts. All claims must be in writing explaining the exact nature of the defect claimed and mailed to INTERSTATE Window & Door Company.

     INTERSTATE Window & Door Co. is not liable for any incidental or consequential damages resulting from any defect. This warranty is made in lieu of all other warranties, expressed or implied.

     This warranty gives you specific legal rights and you may also have other legal rights which vary from state to state. Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitation of incidental or consequential damages, so the above limitation or exclusion may not apply to you.         

Can condensation damage your windows?
Occasional beads of moisture on the glass of your windows usually isn’t a problem.

For example, it’s likely your bathroom mirror and windows will steam up after a hot shower. Or your kitchen window may fog up when you’re boiling food on the stove. But in both these cases, the moisture clears in a matter of minutes.  However, if your windows are “sweating” at other times - or stay that way for any length of time - you probably do have a problem.

Although the glass itself may not be affected, dripping condensation and excess moisture can not only damage your windows but potentially your entire home.
• Wood frames and sash can warp and become difficult to operate.
• Paint can peel and other finishes become mottled or stained.
• Insulation can become damp, damaging ceilings and walls.
• Exterior siding and finishes can become blistered and warped.
• Interior surfaces can become breeding grounds for mold and mildew.

This is why it’s so important to take steps to control and eliminate excess moisture.

Where does all the moisture come from?
In a word, everywhere.
• In the kitchen, moisture is generated by cooking food, using the sink,running the dishwasher.
• In the bathroom, from showers, hot tubs and spas.
• Washers and indoor-vented dryers contribute as well.
• Basements and crawl spaces can channel dampness from the ground into your home.
• Even breathing and perspiration add moisture to indoor air.

Collectively, a family of four can easily generate up to 18 gallons of water a week in the form of humidity inside your home.

How can you get rid of excessive moisture?
To lower your home’s humidity levels, you need to increase ventilation and decrease the sources of moisture.
• Make sure you have good ventilation in high-humidity areas: bathrooms, the kitchen, laundry areas and in the basement.
• If you already have adequate exhaust fans and dehumidifiers in  these areas, try running them for longer periods of time.
• Take shorter showers and install water-restricting faucets - you’ll  lower the humidity and your energy bills as well.
• Cook a little differently. Keep pots and pans covered to hold  moisture in. Use your microwave instead of boiling on the stove. Slow-cooking crock pots are energy-efficient and moisture- efficient, too.
• Check and reroute drainage away from your home, to minimize the moisture in and around your basement and foundation.

How much humidity is the right amount?
You’ve probably heard that your home will feel warmer in winter if the humidity is higher. That’s true, and why many people use humidifiers to counteract dry, static-filled air during the heating season.

In older homes, excess moisture usually isn’t a problem because the structure “breathes” through unsealed cracks and crannies in the construction, creating a regular exchange of outdoor and indoor air. That’s why it is often a struggle to keep enough moisture inside older homes.

But with today’s modern construction techniques, homes are much tighter and energy-efficient. As a result, newer homes don’t usually need a way to add moisture - they’re more likely to have trouble getting rid of it.

So how much humidity is enough to keep us comfortable without dampening our surroundings? Refer to the following chart for temperature and humidity levels that are generally considered comfortable.

Not sure what the humidity is inside your home? Ask a HVAC (heating, ventilating and air conditioning) contractor to measure it for you.

What else can you do to lower excessive indoor moisture levels?
The basic principle of reducing window condensation is simple. When there’s too much condensation on your windows it means the humidity is too high in your home for the current condition outside.

Here are some additional actions that may help reduce excessive humidity levels:
• Open your windows occasionally to vent excess moisture.
• If the condensation is on the storm window, open it periodically to vent excess moisture.
• Open drapes and blinds to allow warm house air to circulate against the window.
• Turn off your furnace humidifier or other home humidifiers.
• Make sure dehumidifiers are working properly and well drained.
• Be sure that louvers in the attic or basement crawl space are open and are of adequate size.
• Run ventilating fans in the kitchen and bathrooms more often.
• Air out your house by opening a door or window for a few minutes after the bathroom, kitchen or laundry has steamed up.

If moisture problems still persist, talk to a HVAC professional or your gas or electric company. They may have additional suggestions for reducing humidity, including venting gas-burning heaters and appliances, adding ventilation fans or getting an outside air intake for your furnace.

Is there any window condensation that’s temporary?
There are two causes of temporary window condensation, and they normally disappear after a few weeks.

First, there is moisture that comes from new construction or remodeling. There’s moisture in new wood, plaster and other building materials. When the heating season starts, this moisture gradually flows into the air of the home. After a few weeks, or at the most, a season of heating, this moisture will disappear.

Second, this same type of moisture can accumulate in a milder form at the beginning of each heating season. During the summer, your house absorbs moisture. After the first few weeks of heating, your home will “dry out” and you’ll have less trouble with window condensation.

What if there’s condensation between the pieces of glass in an insulating window?
As building experts often point out, windows should not be blamed for condensation. They merely are an indicator of too much moisture in the air. In the unlikely event you see condensation between the panes of glass in an insulating window, contact the window contractor or dealer who sold you the windows. Moisture between the glass means that the seal on your window has failed. It’s a rare occurrence, but one that is usually covered for 10 to 20 years under the manufacturer’s limited warranty.

Some of the information above was derived from the following sources:
• Moisture and Home Energy Conservation, U.S. Department of Energy-DOE/CE/15095-4
• Washington Energy Extension Service Technote - Moisture Problems and Multiple Glazing - TN1003
• University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign - Small Homes Council - Building Research Council. Council Notes Moisture Condensation - F6.2 
  Volume 1 Number 1
• Better Business Bureau

CAUTION . . .Some areas that are designated as high wind areas may require additional or special anchorage in order to comply with local and state building codes. Please consult your local Code Official for these requirements to certify installation.  Read all instructions thoroughly before beginning the installation of the window. These instructions are intended as a basic guide for installing new construction and replacement windows. Accessories are available from INTERSTATE to ease the installation and finishing of the window. Inspect unit for correct size, type, and any damage. If a problem exists, contact your Account Representative before installing. Begin by measuring the rough opening. The window should have anywhere from 1/8” to 1/4” space between the window and the frame wall. Also check sill plate to ensure it is level. If sill is not level, make corrections at this time.


REPLACEMENT

1. Remove the old window and prepare the opening (leveling off the sill if necessary). It is important to remember that the replacement window must fit into the opening, plumb, level and square. 
2. Place wood blocks along the window sill if necessary. The blocks will help support the window and keep the sill level. Attach the sill extender (if necessary) to the bottom of the sill and trim it to fit in the opening. Tilt the window up into the opening with the sash closed and locked and set it down on the sill. Tighten the jamb adjusters to hold the window secure while checking it for plumb, level, and square.
3. Once the window is plumb, level and square, install installation screws provided, into the pre-fabricated installation holes in the jambs. The screws can go through the wood blocks and shims if necessary.DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE SCREWS, as this could cause the frame to bow. Re-check the sash for proper operation once the screws have been installed. Caulk and cover the installation holes when necessary.
4. Finish off the exterior of the window. Trim the opening and cap off any gaps. Seal the entire perimeter of the window with the proper grade of silicone caulk, (Novaflex or equal is recommended) but do not caulk over the weep holes. Make certain the sash open and close easily, lift out, lock when closed, and there are no gaps where the sash and frame meet.

NEW CONSTRUCTION

Start by applying Window Wrap to the bottom face of the opening only. Run the window wrap 12" past each side of the opening.  

• 1. Nail fin of the window must be sealed with the proper grade of sealant (Novaflex by Novaguard Silicones or equal is recommended) and flashing to prevent water infiltration around the window. Run a continuous 3/8’ bead of sealant around the inside perimeter of the nailing fin aligned with pre-punched holes.
• 2. Place temporary shims at each corner of the rough opening where the jamb meets the sill plate. With the sash closed and locked, insert the window from the outside and rest it on the shims. Make sure there is a 1/4” gap between the sill plate and window frame to allow for fluctuations in building materials and window unit.
• 3. Use a corrosion resistant fastener that will penetrate a structural member at least 1” with a head size larger than the pre-punched hole. Begin by inserting the fastener in the pre-punched hole in the top corner of the nailing fin. Check the window and be sure that it is centered, plumb, level, square and true in the opening, then nail the other corner of the window head.   Proceed by nailing every, or every-other pre-punched hole on the exterior nailing fin.
• 4. Apply window wrap to the jambs of the window, starting 6" above the head of the window. The window wrap must cover the nailing fin, extending 6" below the sill, and over the wrap at the base. Next, apply window wrap to
  the top, covering the nailfin and extending 6” over the window jamb.
• 5. Loosely pack insulation around the window frame, on the interior, between the frame and the opening. Dow now offers a non-expandable foam that works well with window installations and we have it in stock. 
• 6. Finish off the exterior of the window. If applying brick, stone, stucco, etc., make sure to leave a 1/4” gap around the entire window frame to allow for fluctuation and expansion of materials and mortar. Be sure to use the proper grade of sealant (Novaflex or equal) to seal the entire perimeter of the window. Do not leave any gaps where water or outside elements can penetrate into the home. Use common sense to complete the exterior. Seal all areas that are prone to air or water infiltration. Make certain that the weeps on the outside of the window are open and that water can drain from the sill and out of the weeps.
  
  If these instructions are not followed on all installations and the opening is not plumb, level and square the following may occur:

  1.   Double Hung and Slider sash may be difficult or impossible to operate and remove.
  2.   The sash pivot bar could bind and cause the sash to become inoperative.
  3.   The overlapping and interlocking meeting rail on Double Hung and Slider windows may not perform properly—allowing air and water infiltration,  even if the sash is locked.
  4.   The weather-stripping may not seal properly, allowing air and water infiltration.
  5.   The locking system may not engage properly.